Demystifying Everest

Around the world, Everest is probably the most widely used keyword associated with Nepal. The making and breaking of records on the world’s tallest mountain, the historical and cultural glory of Sherpas, and the multidimensional aspect of the mountaineering industry — all of these successfully attract a global audience.

Everest, however, does not always mean good stories. Tragic accidents and horrifying reports about the deaths of mountaineers are an inevitable, unfortunate aspect one has to be prepared to absorb each year. With the growing number of climbers, accidents are unavoidable.

Over 800 climbers, including Sherpas, are waiting for the window to climb Everest this season. The government of Nepal has issued climbing permits to 373 climbers, the most since 1953 in a single season.

Given that there aren’t many parameters for issuing a climbing license, it has become a herculean task for the government to vet the strength and caliber of people wanting to conquer Everest. Western companies, generally, ask for a climbing resume. But with the influx of a number of Nepali agencies running Everest expeditions without properly checking credentials, some would-be Everest climbers have not ever done a decent trek in their life, nor are they fit.

In 2012, inexperienced mountaineer Shriya Shah-Klorfine paid one of these Nepali start-ups to take her up Everest. She had two to three Sherpas along with her, helping her reach the top. But she ended up dying due to cardiac arrest.

Is it really possible for a Sherpa to literally push someone up to the summit? It’s technically doable, which is why so many companies advertise the possibility. But only the climber knows what’s going on inside their body; all the pulling and pushing in the world won’t help save someone not getting enough oxygen.

Yet with companies using catchy tag lines like “If you can walk, we will take you to the top” Everest is slowly and gradually morphing from the exclusive realm of serious climbers into a general tourist spot — and, for companies, a money machine. “This is not alpinism, this is tourism. People are buying the possibility to go up the piste on Everest,” as legendary climber Reinhold Messner put it in a recent interview with The Diplomat.

For an increasing number of Chinese and Indian climbers, where the economy is booming, spending around $20,000 to ascend Everest isn’t much. Among the foreigners seeking to climb Everest, Americans, Indian, and Chinese topped the list this year.

And if this continues, Everest will soon lose its value.

Complex Weather Window

No matter what companies might want, natural conditions ensure only a limited number of climbers can scale Everest each year. Every season has about three or four good weather windows that allow a safe summit climb.

Sometime in mid-May, the jet-stream moves a little north and the winds subside to about 20-30 kilometers an hour, which provides a window of opportunity. Otherwise, throughout the year the summit of Everest is pummeled by windspeeds as high as 200 km/hr. Decisions are made by talking to the Sherpas and other teams, and factoring in climbers’ “gut feelings.”

Most climbers find a safe passage time by checking at least two weather reports; less wind and less snowfall are the two most important factors. Climbers can look at two weather reports and compare earlier predictions to the actual weather. The forecaster with the better record generally is used in planning. If it’s 50-50, climbers will figure out the days that both companies predict the weather would be good.

In the earlier weather windows, many try to go on despite risky conditions because there is a good chance the window will close. It takes five days to reach the top from base camp, so planning and decisions have to be made at least a week ahead of the final climb. There are times when a big cyclone may come from the Bay of Bangal and disturb the whole predicted weather pattern.In the end, a lot depends on luck.